The cheese-and-charcuterie-intensive inspiration for L.A.'s new generation of wine bars, Suzanne Goin's pan-Mediterranean A.O.C. is a fantasy of a modern small-plates restaurant, the kind of place you drop into for a glass of Friulian Tocai and a plate of sliced prosciutto, a Cairanne and some bacon-wrapped dates with Parmesan or basically anything that comes with Goin's spicy Catalan-influenced romesco sauce, which would probably be irresistible even if you garnished it with a brick. You could drink and eat like this all night if you remembered to make a reservation and if A.O.C. didn't unreasonably stop serving so early.